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| United States Patent |
6,251,375
|
|
Bara
|
June 26, 2001
|
Use of a volatile polyfluorinated solvent as a drying accelerator in
cosmetic products
Abstract
The present invention provides the process for accelerating the drying time
of a cosmetic makeup, sun protection or nail care compositions which
includes introducing at least one volatile organic polyhalogenic solvent
into the composition.
| Inventors:
|
Bara; Isabelle (Paris, FR)
|
| Assignee:
|
L'Oreal (Paris, FR)
|
| Appl. No.:
|
220797 |
| Filed:
|
December 28, 1998 |
Foreign Application Priority Data
| Dec 29, 1997[FR] | 97 16628 |
| Jun 30, 1998[FR] | 98 08338 |
| Current U.S. Class: |
424/61; 424/59; 424/63; 424/64; 424/69; 424/70.7; 424/401 |
| Intern'l Class: |
A61K 007/04; A61K 007/025; A61K 007/021; A61K 007/035; A61K 007/06 |
| Field of Search: |
424/401,59,61,63,69
514/747,759,845,938
|
References Cited
U.S. Patent Documents
| 5843412 | Dec., 1998 | de La Poterie et al.
| |
| 5851539 | Dec., 1998 | Mellul et al. | 424/401.
|
| Foreign Patent Documents |
| 0 595 683 A1 | May., 1994 | EP.
| |
| 2 593 392 | Jul., 1987 | FR.
| |
| 2 756 176 | May., 1998 | FR.
| |
Other References
Chemical Abstracts 117:137 461 & JP 04 139 121 A, May 13, 1992.
Chemical Abstracts 110:160 222 & JP 63 002 916 A, Jan. 7, 1988.
|
Primary Examiner: Dudash; Diana
Assistant Examiner: Berman; Alysia
Attorney, Agent or Firm: Nixon & Vanderhye P.C.
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A process for accelerating the drying time of an anhydrous cosmetic
make-up, sun-protection or nail care composition which consists of
introducing, into said composition, a sufficient amount, for enabling a
rapid drying, of at least one volatile organic solvent selected from the
group consisting of a fluoroalkyl and heterofluoroalkyl compound having
the following formula:
CH.sub.3 --(CH.sub.2).sub.n --[Z].sub.t --X--CF.sub.3
in which:
X is linear or branched divalent perfluoroalkyl radical having 2 to 5
carbon atoms,
Z represents O, S or NR where R is hydrogen or a radical --(CH.sub.2).sub.n
--CH.sub.3 or --(CF.sub.2).sub.m --CF.sub.3,
where m is 2, 3, 4 or 5, n is 0, 1, 2, or 3 and t is 0 or 1,
the said volatile organic solvent having a vapor pressure of more than 20 m
bar (2000 Pa) at 25.degree. C. and a boiling point between 20.degree. C.
and 75.degree. C.
2. The process according to claim 1, wherein the heterofluoroalkyl compound
is methoxynonafluorobutane or ethoxynonafluorobutane.
3. The process according to claim 1, wherein the volatile solvent is
present in the composition in a proportion of between 2 and 98% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. The process according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is
anhydrous and is in the form of a mascara, eyeliner, lipstick, eyeshadow
or rouge or of a nailcare product.
5. The process, according to claim 1, wherein the composition further
comprises particles of a substance selected from the group consisting of a
pigment, a dye, a filler and mixture thereof.
6. The process according to claim 5, wherein the proportion of filler in
the composition is no more than 98% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
7. The process, according to claim 5, wherein the proportion of the
particles in the composition is between 0.1 and 15% by weight, relative to
the total weight of the composition.
Description
The present invention relates to the use of a certain class of volatile
organic polyhalogen compounds, in which the halogen atom is fluorine, in
cosmetic compositions for makeup, sun protection or nailcare, in order to
accelerate their drying time.
The problem associated with the drying of cosmetic products following their
application is of great importance for users.
In fact, a product which has a slow drying rate is generally not very well
accepted, whether it be a foundation, a lipstick or a nailcare product.
Moreover, the rate of drying must not be too rapid, since in that case it
would be liable to produce unattractive shrinkage phenomena.
Although various studies have been carried out with a view to improving the
drying time of cosmetic compositions, especially makeup compositions, no
satisfactory solution has been proposed.
Following numerous studies on various types of compound it has surprisingly
and unexpectedly been found that by using a certain class of volatile
organic polyhalogen solvents in which the halogen atom is fluorine it was
possible to bring about in a particularly satisfactory and effective
manner an improvement in the drying time of cosmetic compositions.
In fact, the use of these solvents, referred to below as volatile
polyfluorinated solvents has been found to enable particularly rapid
drying to be obtained following application of the composition to the
skin, which is not the case with the prior art compositions.
Another particularly important advantage is to be able to obtain the
compositions in perfect safety in so far as the volatile polyfluorinated
solvents do not have a flash point, which makes it possible to prepare
compositions at high temperature and therefore has a certain advantage
when the melting point of the substances used is greater than room
temperature.
Finally, the use of volatile polyfluorinated solvents facilitates the
incorporation into compositions of high concentrations of non-volatile
fluorinated derivatives, the latter being completely miscible with the
volatile polyfluorinated solvents. Hence it is possible to obtain a
residual film which is highly fluorinated, has a glossy or satin finish,
and is resistant to water and fatty substances.
The present invention therefore provides for the use in a cosmetic makeup,
sun protection or nailcare composition of at least one organic polyhalogen
solvent as a drying accelerator, the halogen atom being fluorine and the
said solvent having a vapour pressure of more than 20 mbar (2000 Pa) at
25.degree. C. and preferably more than 40 m bar (4000 Pa).
Among the volatile polyfluorinated solvents which can be used as drying
accelerators and which meet the abovementioned vapour pressure criterion
mention may be made in particular of:
1) perfluorocycloalkyl compounds of the formula (I):
##STR1##
in which
n is 3, 4, or 5
m is 1 or 2, and
p is 1, 2 or 3
with the proviso that when m=2 the groups are not necessarily in the alpha
position with respect to one another,
2) fluoroalkyl or heterofluoroalkyl compounds of the formula (II):
CH.sub.3 --(CH.sub.2).sub.n --[Z].sub.t --X--CF.sub.3 (II)
in which:
t is 0 or 1,
n is 0, 1, 2 or 3,
X is a linear or branched divalent perfluoroalkyl radical having 2 to 5
carbon atoms, and
Z represents O, S or NR, where R is hydrogen or a radical
--(CH.sub.2).sub.n --CH.sub.3 or --(CF.sub.2).sub.m --CF.sub.3, where m is
2, 3, 4 or 5,
3) perfluoroalkane compounds of the formula (III):
CF.sub.3 --(CF.sub.2).sub.n --CF.sub.3 (III)
in which:
n is from 2 to 6, and
4) perfluoromorpholine derivatives of the formula (IV):
##STR2##
in which:
R is a C.sub.1 -C.sub.4 perfluoroalkyl radical.
Among the perfluorocycloalkyls of formula (I) mention may be made in
particular of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and
perfluorodimethylcyclohexane, which are sold, respectively, under the
names FLUTEC PC1.RTM. and FLUTEC PC3.RTM. by the company BNFL
FLUOROCHEMICALS Ltd., and perfluorodimethylcyclobutane.
Among the fluoroalkyl or heterofluoroalkyl compounds of formula (II)
mention may be made in particular of methoxynonafluorobutane, which is
sold under the name HFE-7100.RTM. by the 3M Company, or
ethoxynonafluorobutane, which is sold under the name HFE-7200.RTM. by the
company ARCHIMEX.
Among the perfluoroalkane compounds of formula (III) mention may be made in
particular of dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane.
Among the perfluoromorpholine derivatives of formula (IV) mention may be
made in particular of 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine and
4-pentafluoroethylperfluoromorpholine.
The volatile polyfluorinated solvents as defined above must also meet the
criterion of the boiling point, which must be between 20 and 75.degree. C.
and preferably between 25 and 65.degree. C.
Within the compositions according to the invention the proportion of
volatile polyfluorinated solvent is generally between 2 and 98% by weight
but preferably between 5 and 70% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention the compositions
comprise particles of pigment and/or of dye and/or of filler.
The pigments of the compositions according to the invention, and the dyes
and fillers, are in the form of very fine particles having an average
particle size of between approximately 0.02 and 50 .mu.m.
The pigments of the compositions may be inorganic or organic or else may be
in the form of metal lakes. Among these pigments mention may be made of
titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, D&C Red No. 36 and D&C Orange No. 17,
calcium lakes of D&C Red No. 7, 11, 31 and 34, barium lake of D&C Red No.
12, D&C Red No. 13 strontium lake, aluminium lakes of FD&C Yellow No. 5,
of FD&C Yellow No. 6, of D&C Red No. 27, of D&C Red No. 21 and of FD&C
Blue No. 1, iron oxides, manganese violet, chromium oxide and ultramarine
blue.
The fillers may be of natural or synthetic origin. Among these mention may
be made in particular of:
a) mineral powders such as talc, kaolin, mica, silica, silicates, alumina,
zeolites, hydroxyapatite, sericite, titanium micas, barium sulphate,
bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and metal powders such as aluminium
powder;
b) vegetable powders, such as starch, maize, wheat or rice powders;
c) organic powders, such as nylon, polyamide, polyester,
polytetrafluoroethylene or polyethylene powders.
Moreover, these various powders may be coated, for example with metal salts
of fatty acids, amino acids, lecithin, collagen, silicone compounds,
fluorinated compounds, or with any other customary coating.
Among the dyes mention may be made of eosine derivatives, such as D&C Red
No. 21, and halogenated fluorescein derivatives, such as D&C Red No. 27,
D&C Orange No. 5 in combination with D&C No. 21 and D&C Orange No. 10.
Depending on the compositions, the dyes may be in particle form or may be
in a form in which they are solubilized in the vehicle of the composition.
Within the compositions according to the invention the proportion of at
least one pigment and/or dye is generally between approximately 0.1 and
15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The fillers may generally be present in a maximum proportion of
approximately 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
According a first particular embodiment of the compositions according to
the invention, the latter are anhydrous and comprise a fatty phase in a
proportion of between approximately 0.3 and 90% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition.
The fatty phase generally consists of one or more fatty substances, which
may be selected from oils, waxes, gums and/or so-called pastelike fatty
substances.
A--The oils of the fatty phase may be mineral, animal, vegetable or
synthetic in origin, and these may be volatile or non-volatile at ambient
temperature.
As oils of mineral origin mention may be made in particular of liquid
paraffin and liquid petroleum.
As oils of animal origin mention may be made in particular of squalane or
perhydrosqualene.
As oils of vegetable origin mention may be made in particular of sweet
almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, sesame
oil, olive oil, castor oil, and cereal germ oils such as, for example,
wheat germ oil.
As synthetic oils mention may be made in particular of:
(1) esters of the formula (III):
R.sub.1 --COOR.sub.2 (III)
in which:
R.sub.1 is the residue of a higher fatty acid having 7 to 20 carbon atoms
and
R.sub.2 is a hydrocarbon radical having 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
Among these esters mention may be made in particular of purcellin oil,
butyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl
palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl
stearate, isocetyl stearate, decyl oleate, hexyl laurate, isononyl
isononanoate, and esters derived from lanolic acid, such as isopropyl
lanolate and isocetyl lanolate.
As other synthetic oils mention may be made, moreover, of isoparaffins,
isododecane, isohexadecane, polyisobutenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene,
and also acetylglycerides, and octanoates and decanoates of polyalcohols
such as those of glycol and of glycerol, the ricinoleates of alcohols and
of polyalcohols such as that of cetyl alcohol, propylene glycol
dicaprylate and diisopropyl adipate;
(2) fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl
alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and octyldodecanol;
(3) silicone oils, such as optionally functionalized linear
polydiorganosiloxanes, cyclic polydiorganosiloxanes and, in particular,
cyclotetradimethicones and cyclopentadimethicones, and organopolysiloxanes
such as alkyl-, alkoxy- or phenyldimethicones, and especially
phenyltrimethicone;
(4) non-volatile fluorinated oils, such as perfluorodecalin,
perfluorophenanthrene, perfluoroalkanes and perfluoropolyesters, and
partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils.
According to one particularly preferred form of the invention use is made
of non-volatile perfluoropolyethers of the formulae (IV) and (V):
##STR3##
in which:
n=7 to 30,
##STR4##
in which
n and m=20 to 40.
Among these compounds mention may be made of those sold under the names
FOMBLIN C.RTM. and GALDEN.RTM. by the company ASSIMONT, or else under the
name FLUORTRESS LM 36.RTM. by the company DU PONT.
B--The waxes of the fatty phase may be mineral, fossil, animal, vegetable
or synthetic in origin or else may be hydrogenated oils or fatty esters
which are solid at 25.degree. C.
Among mineral waxes mention may be made in particular of microcrystalline
waxes, paraffin, petroleum jelly and ceresine.
Among fossil waxes mention may be made of ozokerite and montan wax.
Among the waxes of animal origin mention may be made of beeswax,
spermaceti, lanolin wax, and derivatives obtained from lanolin, such as
lanolin alcohols, hydrogenated lanolin, hydroxylated lanolin, acetylated
lanolin, fatty acids of lanolin, and acetylated lanolin alcohol.
Among the waxes of vegetable origin mention may be made in particular of
candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax and cocoa butter.
Among synthetic waxes mention may be made in particular of ethylene
homopolymers and of the copolymers of ethylene with a monomer of the
formula (VI):
CH.sub.2.dbd.CH--R.sub.3 (VI)
in which:
R.sub.3 is an alkyl radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aryl or
aralkyl radical.
The alkyl radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms is preferably the methyl,
ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical.
It is also possible to use waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, as
well as silicone waxes.
Among the hydrogenated oils which are solid at 25.degree. C. mention may be
made in particular of hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated palm oil,
hydrogenated tallow and hydrogenated coconut oil.
Among the fatty esters which are solid at 25.degree. C. mention may be made
in particular of propylene glycol monomyristate and myristyl myristate.
As waxes which can be use din the compositions according to the invention
mention may also be made of cetyl alcohol, stearly alcohol, mono-, di- and
triglycerides which are solid at 25.degree. C., stearic monoethanolamide,
rosin and its derivatives such as the abietates of glycol and of glycerol,
sucroglycerides, and the oleates, jyristates, lanolates, stearates and
dihydroxystearates of calcium, of magnesium, of zinc and of aluminium.
C--The fatty substances of pastelike type may be mineral, animal, vegetable
or synthetic in origin.
Among the pastelike fatty substances mention may be made in particular of
synthetic esters such as arachidyl propionate, vinyl polylaurate,
polyethylene waxes, and organopolysiloxanes such as alkyldimethicones,
alkydimethicones or dimethicone esters.
The anhydrous compositions as defined above may of course additionally
include one or more conventional cosmetic or dermatological additives or
adjuvants.
These anhydrous compositions are generally makeup products or sun
protection products and are present, for example, in the form of an oily
gel, a solid product such as a compacted or cast powder, or else a stick
such as a lipstick, for example.
When the compositions are in the form of an oily gel they generally
comprise an oily gelling agent in addition to the above-described
constituents.
Among the oily gelling agents mention may be made in particular of metal
esters, such as polyoxyaluminium stearate and magnesium or aluminium
hydroxystearate, esters of fatty acids and glycol, triglycerides, mixtures
of fatty alcohols, cholesterol derivatives, and especially
hydroxychloresterol, and clay minerals which swell in the presence of oil,
especially those belonging to the group of the montmorillonites.
The oily gelling agents may be present in a proportion which is highly
variable depending on the desired texture of the compositions. In the
majority of cases, however, they are present in a proportion of between
approximately 0.1 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
Among the makeup products which are produced from these anhydrous
compositions mention may be made of foundations, mascaras, eyeliners,
lipsticks, eyeshadows and rouges.
These anhydrous compositions may also be present in the form of liquid oily
products for nailcare, the fatty phase comprising at least one active
agent.
Among the active agents of these nailcare compositions mention may be made
in particular of ceramides, phytantriol, D-panthenol, .alpha.-hydroxy
acids, UV screens, vitamins, keratin and biotin.
According to a second embodiment of the compositions according to the
invention, the latter are dispersions in the form of a stable water-in-oil
(W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion which consist essentially (i) of a
fatty phase in a proportion of between approximately 0.1 and 50% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition, it being possible for the
said fatty phase to comprise at least one fatty substance as defined above
in a proportion of between approximately 0.1 and 95% by weight relative to
the total weight of the composition, (ii) of an aqueous phase in a
proportion of between approximately 4 and 97% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition, and (iii) of at least one emulsifier in a
proportion of between approximately 1 and 10% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition in emulsion form.
As an emulsifier or surfactant which can be used in the compositions in the
form of a W/O or O/W emulsion, mention may be made in particular of
silicone surfactants, and especially those belonging to the class of the
alkyl- or alkoxydimethicone copolyols. Among the alkyl- or
alkoxydimethicone copolyols mention may be made in particular of the
compounds of the following general formula:
##STR5##
in which:
R is a hydrogen atom, a C.sub.1 -C.sub.16 alkyl, or an alkoxy or acyl,
R' is a C.sub.8 -C.sub.22 alkyl or alkoxy radical,
u=0 to 200,
v=1 to 40,
w=1 to 100,
the molecular weight of the radical --O--(C.sub.2 H .sub.4 O).sub.x
--(C.sub.3 H.sub.6 O).sub.y --R being from 250 to 2000, where x and y are
chosen such that the ratio by weight of the oxyethylene/oxypropylene
groups is between 100:0 and 20:80.
Among the commercial products which may contain, as a whole or in part,
alkyldimethicone copolyols, mention may be made in particular of those
sold under the names ABIL WE09.RTM., ABIL EM90.RTM. or ABIL WS08.RTM. by
the company GOLDSCHMIDT, Q2 5200.RTM. or Q2 3225C.RTM. by the company DOW
CORNING, and 218 1138.RTM. by the General Electric Company.
The surfactants may also be selected from anionic or nonionic surfactants.
In this regard reference may be made to the document Encyclopedia of
Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER, volume 22, pages 333-432, 3rd edition,
1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions
(emulsifying) of surfactants, especially pages 347-377 of this reference,
for nonionic and anionic surfactants.
The surfactants from these two groups that are preferably used in the
compositions according to the invention are:
among the nonionic surfactants: fatty acids, fatty alcohols,
polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, such as
polyethoxylated stearly alcohol or polyethoxylated cetylstearyl alcohol,
esters of fatty acids and sucrose, alkylglucose esters, especially
polyoxyethylenated C.sub.1 -C.sub.6 -alkylglucose fatty esters, and
among the anionic surfactants: amine stearates.
These emulsions are preferably in the form of creams and can be used as
makeup products or suncare products. In the latter case they comprise UVA
and/or UVB sunscreens and also white pigments, in a proportion which is
variable depending on the desired protection factor.
The compositions such as those described above, whether of anhydrous type
or in the form of a dispersion, exhibit excellent cosmetic properties,
such as, in particular, excellent ease of application and great softness,
and lead to the production of a homogeneous makeup.
The compositions as above described may additionally comprise one or more
conventional cosmetic adjuvants, such as vitamins, hormones, antioxidants,
rheological agents, preservatives, perfumes, thickeners, hydrating agents,
humectanta, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers, or cosmetic or
dermatological active substances.
The present invention also provides the process for preparing a cosmetic
makeup, sun protection or nailcare composition in order to accelerate its
drying time, this process consisting in introducing into the said
composition an effective quantity of at least one volatile polyfluorinated
solvent as defined above having a vapour pressure of more than 20 mbar
(2000 Pa) at 25.degree. C.
The invention will now be illustrated by the various examples given below,
in which the quantities are by weight.
EXAMPLES
Example 1: Lipstick
Methoxynonafluorobutane (HFE-7100) 10 g
Perfluorodecalin 35 g
Wax 40 g
Polyperfluoroisopropyl ether 5 g
(FLUORTRESS LM 36 .RTM.)
Pigments 10 g
The fatty substances are mixed while hot but at a temperature lower than
that at which the volatile oil evaporates, the pigments are introduced
with stirring, and the melted mixture is subsequently poured into lipstick
moulds.
After cooling and removal from the moulds, lipsticks are obtained which
have a good texture, are easy to apply and have a very short drying time.
In this example the methoxynonafluorobutane can be replaced by an
equivalent amount of tetradecafluorohexane or
perfluorodimethylcyclohexane.
Example 2: Foundation
Perfluoromethylcyclopentane (FLUTEC PC 1 .RTM.) 20 g
Alkyldimethicone copolyol; (ABIL WE 09 .RTM.) 5 g
Cyclomethicone 10 g
Pigments 7 g
Water q.s. 100 g
This foundation is obtained in the form of a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion by
mixing the fatty phase and the aqueous phase with stirring. This gives a
foundation with a good consistency which is easy to apply and has a very
rapid drying time.
Example 3: Waterproof Mascara
Methoxynonafluorobutane 25.0 g
Paraffin 4.6 g
Isopar 15.0 g
Carnauba wax 9.6 g
Beeswax 10.0 g
Propylene carbonate (plasticizer) 3.8 g
Hydroxyethylcellulose (polymer thickener) 0.6 g
Bentone (rheological agent) 11.4 g
Pigments 10.0 g
Preservatives q.s.
Water q.s. 100.0 g
Following application to the eyelashes, this mascara dries very rapidly.
Example 4: Body Makeup Product
Methoxynonafluorobutane 40.0 g
Cyclomethicone (and) dimethiconol sold 38.4 g
under the name Q2 1401 .RTM. by the company
DOW CORNING
Parleam (oil) 1.0 g
Solsperse 21000 (filler) 0.1 g
Cyclomethicone sold under the name 20.0 g
DC 245 .RTM. by the company DOW CORNING
Nanopigments 6.25 g
Example 5: Nailcare Product
An oily nailcare product is prepared by mixing the following ingredients:
Methoxynonafluorobutane 10.0 g
Cellulose acetobutyrate 0.5 g
Isopropyl alcohol 5.0 g
Propylene glycol monomethylether 3.0 g
Volatile silicone oil 10.0 g
Vegetable oil 64.5 g
Active substance (D-panthenol) 1.0 g
Dyes
Pyrogenic silica 1.0 g
Mineral oil q.s. 100.0 g
This nailcare product is easy to apply and penetrates by massage into the
matrix of the nail and into the nail bed; its rate of drying is very
rapid.
In this example, the methoxynonafluorobutane can be replaced advantageously
by an equivalent amount of ethoxynonafluorobutane or
4-trifluoromethyloctafluoromorpholine.
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