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| United States Patent |
5,662,890
|
|
Punto
, et al.
|
September 2, 1997
|
Self-tanning cosmetic compositions and methods of using the same
Abstract
The present invention relates to novel cosmetic preparations for
artificially tanning the skin. These novel cosmetics are applied to the
skin in a sprayable mist application. These cosmetics are oil and alcohol
free and are quick drying. Further, these cosmetic preparations provide an
even, deeper and long lasting artificial tan.
| Inventors:
|
Punto; Louis L. (Northport, NY);
Zecchino; Jules R. (Closter, NJ);
Lentini; Peter J. (Glen Oaks, NY)
|
| Assignee:
|
Estee Lauder, Inc. (New York, NY)
|
| Appl. No.:
|
320772 |
| Filed:
|
October 11, 1994 |
| Current U.S. Class: |
424/59; 424/60; 514/938; 514/946; 514/947 |
| Intern'l Class: |
A61K 007/42 |
| Field of Search: |
424/59,60
514/938,946,947
|
References Cited
U.S. Patent Documents
| 2949403 | Aug., 1960 | Andreadis et al. | 167/90.
|
| 3177120 | Apr., 1965 | Black et al. | 167/90.
|
| 3184388 | May., 1965 | Kalopissis | 424/60.
|
| 4145413 | Mar., 1979 | Usdin et al. | 424/63.
|
| 4383986 | May., 1983 | Dubash et al. | 424/25.
|
| 4434154 | Feb., 1984 | McShane | 424/60.
|
| 4708865 | Nov., 1987 | Turner | 424/59.
|
| 4711904 | Dec., 1987 | Luzzi et al. | 514/464.
|
| 4746509 | May., 1988 | Haggiage et al. | 424/449.
|
| 5059426 | Oct., 1991 | Chiang et al. | 424/449.
|
| 5071657 | Dec., 1991 | Oloff et al. | 424/486.
|
| 5431902 | Jul., 1995 | Cuine et al. | 424/45.
|
Other References
Clement et al, 1989, Chem. Abs., vol. 113 (16); 138317S.
Cooper and Patel, 1990, "Practical Considerations for Topical Drug
Formulations With and Without Enhancers", Topical Drug Delivery
Formulations (Marcel Dekker, Inc., New York) pp. 1-12.
|
Primary Examiner: Dodson; Shelley A.
Attorney, Agent or Firm: Pennie & Edmonds LLP
Parent Case Text
This is a continuation of application Ser. No. 07/980,001, filed Nov. 23,
1992, now abandoned, which is incorporated by reference herein in its
entirety.
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A sprayable cosmetic composition, for artificially tanning the skin
wherein said composition is applied to the skin in an atomized droplet
form, comprising from about 2.5 to about 10% by weight of dihydroxyactone
and from about 5 to about 75% by weight of one or more penetration
enhancers, in an aqueous base which is free of oil or alcohol.
2. A sprayable cosmetic composition, for artificially tanning the skin
wherein said composition is applied to the skin in an atomized droplet
form, which comprises:
(a) from about 2.5% to about 10% by weight of dihydroxyacetone;
(b) from about 25% to about 95% by weight of water; and
(c) one or more penetration enhancers; said composition being free of
alcohol and oil.
3. A sprayable cosmetic composition, for artificially tanning the skin
wherein said composition is applied to the skin in an atomized droplet
form, which comprises:
(a) from about 2.5% to about 10% by weight of dihydroxyacetone;
(b) from about 25% to about 95% by weight of water;
(c) from about 5% to about 72.5% by weight of one or more penetration
enhancers; said composition being free of alcohol and oil.
4. A cosmetic composition, sprayable in atomized droplet form, for
artificially tanning the skin which comprises:
______________________________________
Approximate
Weight Percent
______________________________________
Deionized Water 63.0
Dihydroxyacetone
5.0
1,3 butylene glycol
3.0
UCON 50 HB 660 0.5
Cropeptide W 0.2
Arasolve DMI 10.0
Protomate 600-ML
1.5
Euxyl K-400 0.2
Transcutol 10.0
Dermol GL-7A 5.0
Surfactol 365 1.0
______________________________________
5. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, 2, or 3 wherein said penetration
enhancer is dimethyl isosorbide, diethyl glycol monoethyl ether or a
combination thereof.
6. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, 2, or 3 which is applied to the
skin by a spray applicator.
7. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, 2 or 3 which is applied to the skin
in an aerosol spray.
8. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, 2 or 3 which further comprises
about 2% to about 8% by weight of a sunscreen agent selected from the
group consisting of octyldimethyl PABA, benzophenone-4,
DEA-methoxycinnanate, 2-phenyl-benzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid and TEA
salicylate.
9. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, 2 or 3 wherein said composition
dries more quickly than a cream or emulsion system.
10. A method of artificially tanning the skin which comprises applying an
effective amount of a cosmetic preparation of claim 1, 2 or 3 wherein the
artificial tan is more even, deeper and longer lasting than the artificial
tan achieved by non-aqueous based compositions.
11. A method of artificially tanning the skin which comprises applying an
effective amount of a quick drying cosmetic composition of claim 1, 2 or
3.
12. An improved method of artificially tanning the skin which comprises
applying in an atomized droplet form an amount of a cosmetic composition
according to claim 1, 2, 3 or 4.
13. The method of claim 10 or 11 wherein said composition is applied by a
spray or aerosol application.
14. A method of artificially tanning the skin which comprises applying in
an atomized droplet form an effective amount of a sprayable cosmetic
preparation comprising from about 2.5 to about 10% by weight of
dihydroxyacetone and from about 5 to about 75% by weight of one or more
penetration enhancers in an aqueous base which is free of oil or alcohol.
Description
1. FIELD OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to cosmetic compositions for providing an artificial
tan on skin and a method of using the same. More specifically, the
invention relates to a cosmetic composition useful as a self-tanning agent
when topically applied to the skin which has excellent evenness, depth and
longevity of the artificial tan while having excellent drying properties.
2. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
U.S. Pat. No. 2,949,403 discloses compositions of and methods of using
dihydroxyacetone as a tanning agent for the human epidermis. It has been
reported that dihydroxyacetone reacts with skin proteins and amino acids
to elicit its skin coloring effect. Since the 1960's, several compositions
using dihydroxyacetone as an active ingredient have been reported. These
compositions include a topical solution containing dihydroxyacetone and
various dyes such as catch powder, dogwood powder and walnut powder (the
dyes are employed to offset the undesirable orange cast or hue which
results from the use of dihydroxyacetone on fair skinned humans, see U.S.
Pat. No. 4,708,865); and compositions containing dihydroxyacetone and
sunscreen compounds such as octyl dimethyl PABA (e.g., U.S. Pat. Nos.
4,434,154 and 3,177,120).
Further, dihydroxyacetone has been formulated into oil-in-water emulsions,
into preparations containing up to 50% alcohol which tends to dry the
skin, and into "creamy bases" such as are found in hand and face lotions
and creams. Moreover, Andreadis et al. in U.S. Pat. No. 2,949,403 state
that dihydroxyacetone may be carried or suspended in various cosmetic
bases suitable for external application directly to the skin. Andreadis et
al. state that for external applications such bases may take the form of
liquid or cream lotions, ointments, dusting powders and the like.
To date, all the vehicles used for applying dihydroxyacetone to the skin
have been creams and lotions of emulsions containing either oils or
alcohols. In a cream or lotion form, dihydroxyacetone must diffuse from
the base into the skin. Therefore, the common excipients used in these
forms, i.e., emulsifiers, oils, waxes, etc., trap a portion of the
dihydroxyacetone in the surface film which is on top of the skin thereby
making it unavailable for reaction with skin proteins or amino acids. This
results in loss of depth and longevity of the artificial tan.
It is an object of the present invention to provide a more convenient
method of applying dihydroxyacetone to the skin. Another object of the
present invention is to provide a quick drying self-tanning composition.
It is also an object of the present invention to provide an alcohol-free,
oil-free self-tanning composition containing dihydroxyacetone.
It is a further object of the present invention to provide a water-based
spray-on self-tanning composition.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic
self-tanning composition which imparts a deeper, longer lasting tan than
the prior art compositions. It is an object of the present invention to
provide a composition for artificially tanning human skin which provides a
coloring that closely resembles natural tan coloring.
It is yet another object of the present invention to provide an improved
skin tanning cosmetic which may be delivered in an atomized droplet form
for deeper skin penetration and overall superior tanning effects.
3. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
It has been discovered that the novel aqueous based self-tanning
compositions of the present invention provide a deeper, longer lasting
artificial tan than known self-tanning compositions. It has further been
discovered that the artificial tan achieved with the present invention is
more similar in color to a natural tan than any known self-tanning
compositions. The present invention encompasses a self-tanning (artificial
skin coloring) composition useful as a cosmetic for the skin which
comprises an aqueous dermatologic base, dihydroxyacetone ("DHA") and
optionally, aqueous penetration enhancers including but not limited to
dimethylisosorbide and diethylene glycol monoethylether.
The compositions of the present invention are suitable for application to
the skin in the form of a mist or spray which is possible through the use
of an aerosol or spray-on applicator i.e., the compositions are applied to
the skin in an atomized droplet form. In the present aqueous base system,
the dihydroxyacetone has improved absorption into the skin yielding a
deeper and more even penetration into the skin, which provides a deeper,
more even longer lasting artificial tan. Therefore, the cosmetic
compositions of the present invention are an improvement over currently
available skin tanning systems. Moreover, the cosmetic compositions of the
present invention are more convenient to use because they are quick
drying.
The present invention further encompasses a method of tanning the skin
(i.e., of imparting an artificial tan to the skin) which comprises
topically applying to the skin an amount of the novel self-tanning
compositions, said amount being sufficient to impart an artificial tan to
the skin wherein said tan is deeper, more even and longer lasting than the
tan achieved by currently available or prior systems.
4. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
The accompanying figures, which are incorporated in and constitute a part
of the specification, illustrate embodiments of the invention and,
together with the description, serve to explain the principles of the
invention.
FIG. 1 is a bar graph illustrating the increased depth of the artificial
tan achieved with a composition of the present invention, E.L. Selftan
Mist, as compared to creams.
FIG. 2 is a graph illustrating the increased depth of the artificial tan
achieved with the mist composition of the present invention as compared to
creams. .DELTA.L and .DELTA.b represent the decrease in reflectance and
the increase in yellow coloration respectively.
FIG. 3 is a bar graph illustrating the evenness of the artificial tan
achieved with compositions of the present invention. A low standard
deviation is indicative of evenness of color.
FIG. 4 is a graph illustrating the long lasting artificial tan effect of
compositions of the present invention.
FIG. 5 is a bar graph illustrating the dose response of E.L. Selftan Mist
at various concentrations over long term use (1 and 3 week in-use).
FIG. 6 is a bar graph illustrating the total color change achieved with
several self-tan products vs. E.L. Selftan Mist, 5 and 24 hours after
application.
FIGS. 7 and 8 are plots illustrating the difference in color of the
artificial tan, in particular, the relation to that of a natural tan, for
several selftan products including E.L. Selftan Mist. The plot represents
the "natural universe of tan".
5. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is a self-action tanning composition useful for
imparting an artificial tan to skin by topical application in the form of
a mist or spray. The present novel compositions are formulated into an
aqueous base system comprising dihydroxyacetone ("DHA") as the active
ingredient. Surprisingly, the aqueous base system allows for a greater
absorption of DHA by the skin primarily because of the low level of
excipients which can trap, portions of the DHA in the surface film making
it unavailable for reaction with skin proteins and/or amino acids.
The aqueous base system of the present invention provides an additional
improvement over currently available creams and emulsions because the
system allows for the application of the product in the form of a mist or
spray. The mist type application delivers the product in an atomized
droplet form which further improves penetration and absorption of the DHA
into the skin. The greater absorption of DHA achieved by the present
invention allows for a deeper and longer lasting tan than that achieved by
the currently available emulsion or cream systems. In addition, the mist
type application of the present invention provides for a quicker drying
composition. See Examples and Tables, infra.
Furthermore, in an aqueous base, DHA can have an even greater absorption
with the use of aqueous soluble penetration enhancers. The use of aqueous
soluble penetration enhancers in conjunction with the present invention
provides yet another benefit since the penetration enhancers assist with
the penetration of DHA into the skin. This invention constitutes the first
use, known to the inventors, of penetration enhancers in this type of
product, i.e., a self-action tanning product. Moreover, because the
penetration enhancers can be used at levels not normally used in emulsion
systems an even greater effect can be achieved. Generally, at high levels
penetration enhancers are difficult to emulsify and destabilize the
emulsion in which they are present, therefore high levels are not used in
emulsion systems. The use of such penetration enhancers provides yet a
higher DHA penetration than that achieved by the emulsion systems.
Suitable penetration enhancers for use in the present invention are known
to those skilled in the art and can be found in the CTFA International
Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary 4th Edition, The Cosmetics, Toiletries and
Fragrance Association, Washington, D.C., 1991. These penetration enhancers
must be able to solubilize DHA. The preferred penetration enhancers
include but are not limited to dimethyl isosorbide (Ariasolve.RTM. DMI,
ICI Americas) and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether (Transcutol.RTM.,
Gatte fosse).
Moreover, as discussed above, because the present invention allows the
compositions to be delivered in an atomized droplet form, the DHA also
penetrates deeper and develops better than conventional forms. While not
being limited to any theory, it is believed that as the composition is
broken up into a mist, certain volatile components flash off; as the
product reaches the skin, in a very small droplet size compared to other
delivery systems (e.g., creams or emulsions), a more concentrated DHA
solution is available to penetrate and bind to the skin. Optionally, with
the help of the non-volatile penetration enhancers and this smaller
droplet size, a more concentrated DHA solution penetrates farther down
into the skin giving a deeper, longer lasting tan.
The present invention encompasses an aqueous base self-tanning composition
which comprises about 25 to about 95% water by weight percent of the total
composition, preferably purified or deionized water; about 2.5 to about
10% by weight of dihydroxyacetone; and optionally about 5 to about 75% by
weight of one or more penetration enhancers including but not limited to
dimethyl isosorbide and diethyl glycol mono ethyl ether.
Various optional ingredients may be included in the compositions of the
present invention, these include but are not limited to perfumes,
preservatives, emollients, antiseptics, pigments, dyes, humectants,
propellants, as well as other classes of materials whose presence may be
cosmetically, medicinally or otherwise desirable. Common examples can be
found in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary 4th
Edition, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc.,
Washington, D.C., 1991. Common examples of such ingredients are provided
below by way of example and not limitation.
Optional ingredients include polyoxyethylene ethers such as
PPG-12-buteth-16 (UCON 50 HB 660), PPG-3-buteth 5, PPG-5-buteth 7,
PPG-7-buteth 10, PPG-9-buteth 12, PPG-12-buteth 16, PPG-15-buteth 20,
PPG-20-buteth 30, PPG-28-buteth 35, PPG-33-buteth 45, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-8,
PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-32, or suitable ingredients which provide emolliency;
hydrolyzed wheat protein/wheat oligosaccharides such as Cropeptide W.RTM.,
hydrolyzed corn protein, hydrolyzed corn starch, hydrolyzed wheat gluten,
hydrolyzed yeast protein, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, hydrolyzed soy
protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed potato protein, which are
suitable for moisturization; polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-14
Laurate, PEG-15 Laurate, PEG-20 Laurate, PEG-32 Laurate, PEG-75 Laurate,
PEG-150 Laurate or other surfactants which are used for fragrance
solubilization; glycereth-7-triacetate (Dermol GL-7A, Alzo), glycerin,
glycereth 5 lactate, glycereth 7 diisonanoate which are used for
moisturization, emolliency and to help solubilize fragrance; PEG-40 Castor
Oil (Surfactol 365, CasChem), PEG 45 castor oil, PEG 50 castor oil, PEG 60
castor oil, PEG 100 castor oil which are surfactants to help solubilize
fragrance and also provide emolliency and moisturization; preservatives
such as methyldibromo-glutaronitrile/phenoxyethanol/polyquaternium-7
(Euxyl K-400, Calgon) methyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea benzalkonium
chloride, diazolidinyl urea, benzethonium chloride, sodium benzoate and
sorbic acid; sunscreens such as octyldimethyl PABA, benzophenone-4,
DEA-methoxycinnamate, 2-phenyl-benzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid and TEA
salicylate; and finally fragrances.
The aqueous base self-tanning compositions of the present invention do not
contain alcohols or oils, as is typical of currently available systems. As
used herein, the term "alcohols" refers to common solvents known to those
skilled in the cosmetic art; these include but are not limited to ethanol
and isopropyl alcohol. The term "alcohols" as used herein is not meant to
encompass polyols, i.e., compounds with more than one hydroxyl group.
Similarly, as used herein, "oil free" means that the cosmetic composition
does not contain ingredients such as mineral oil, rice oil, almond oil,
and jojoba oil and other oils commonly used by those skilled in the art.
As used herein the terms "tanning of the skin", "coloring of the skin" or
"artificially tanning the skin" mean that a simulated natural tan effect
is produced on the skin, particularly the epidermis.
As used herein the term "atomized droplet form" means that the composition
is not delivered as cream or emulsion type composition but in the form of
particles achieved by spray applicators, aerosol applicators and other
such applicators known to those skilled in the art.
The compositions of the present invention are prepared by the following
preferred procedure which is performed at room temperature and pressure.
Other procedures known to those skilled in the art may also be used. The
procedure refers to the ingredients found in E.L. Self-Action Tanning
Mist.
E.L. Self-action Tanning Mist
______________________________________
Ingredient Sequence Percent Weight
______________________________________
Deionized Water 1 63.1
Dihydroxyacetone
2 5.0
1,3 butylene 3 3.0
glycol
UCON 50 HB 660 3 0.5
Cropeptide W 3 0.2
Arasolve DMI 3 10.0
Protomate 600-ML
3 1.5
Euxyl K-400 4 0.2
Transcutol 4 10.0
Dermol GL-7A 4 5.0
Surfactol 365 5 1.0
Fragrance 6 0.5
______________________________________
1. Add the deionized water (Sequence 1) to the main kettle equipped with a
Lightnin mixer and begin moderate agitation.
2. Sprinkle dihydroxyacetone (Sequence 2) into the deionized water
(Sequence 1) and mix until dissolved.
3. Add Sequence 3 one at a time to the main kettle and mix until dissolved.
4. In a separate vessel, add the Dermol GL-7A of Sequence 4 and begin
moderate Lightnin mixer agitation. Add the fragrance and mix until
dispersed. Add the surfactol 365 and mix for 5 minutes. Add Sequence 4 to
the main kettle.
5. Add Sequence 5.
6. Add Sequence 6 and mix for 10 minutes.
7. Stop mixing and pump product through a 10 m filter into poly-lined
drums.
Additional spray-on self tanning compositions are prepared as described
above. These have the following formulas:
______________________________________
Ingredient Percent Weight
______________________________________
Deionized water 53.35
Methyl paraben 0.10
Glycerin 3.00
DHA 5.00
Arlasolve DMI 20.00
Procetyl AWS 3.00
Fragrance 0.25
Transcutol 15.00
Sorbic acid 0.10
Hydrolyzed vegetable protein
0.20
______________________________________
______________________________________
Ingredient Percent Weight
______________________________________
Deionized water 77.25
Eusolex 232 1.00
Butylene glycol 3.00
TEA 0.70
DHA 5.00
UCON 50 HB 660 1.00
Arlasolve DMI 5.00
Transcutol 5.00
Cropeptide W 0.20
Surfactol 365 1.50
Fragrance 0.25
Euxyl K-400 0.10
______________________________________
The compositions of the present invention are applied to the skin using a
spray pump applicator, spray bladder packages and aerosols powered by
compressed gas. The compositions are applied evenly to the skin and should
be applied to dry skin after exfoliating. Color will develop several hours
after the application and Will last for about 4 to about 8 days.
The invention is further defined by reference to the following examples
which are set forth by way of example and not limitation.
EXAMPLES
6.1 Example 1
DEPTH AND EVENNESS OF SELF-ACTION TANNING COMPOSITIONS
E.L. SELF-ACTION TANNING CREAM VS. MIST
This example compares the depth and evenness of the tan achieved with
Self-Action Tanning Mist (B) and Self-Action Tanning Cream (A). The skin
coloration with the Selftan Mist (B) was deeper than the cream as observed
after 20 Scotch Tape Strippings. The Selftan Mist also gives more even
tones as observed by the low standard of deviation of the color
replicates.
This experiment was designed to compare the depth and evenness of
self-action tanning effect of E.L. Self-action Tanning Cream and Mist on
increasing skin color. The following products were tested:
A. E.L. Self-action Tanning Cream
______________________________________
Ingredient Weight Percent
______________________________________
Tween 85 2.0
Arlacel 165 2.5
Glyceryl Monostearate (pure)
1.0
Polawax Regular/Lipowax P
4.75
Ceraphyl 50 2.4
Crodafos SG 1.2
Lexol GT-865/Liponate GC
9.5
Bernel Ester TOC 4.0
Silicone Fluid 556 4.5
Wax 580A 0.3
Propyl Paraben 0.1
Butyl Paraben 0.05
Dehydroacetic Acid 0.1
Allantoin 0.1
Veegum HV (4% Disp.) 32.0
Deionized Water 15.03
Sorbic Acid (Surbistat SOR)
0.05
Methyl Paraben USP 0.3
Ethylparaben 0.07
Propyl Paraben 0.05
Sequestrene NA3 0.1
Phosphoric Acid (50% Aq. Soln)
0.2
Cyanamer N-300 LMW (1% Aq. Soln)
2.6
Fragrance 561/1 0.75
Deionized Water 5.0
Propylene Glycol USP 5.0
Dihydroxyacetone (Organic)
5.0
Deionized Water 1.0
Sodium Metabisulfite 0.1
Phosphoric Acid (50% Aq. Soln)
0.25
______________________________________
B. E.L. Self-action Tanning Mist (see formula above)
6.1.1 PROCEDURE FOR DEPTH & EVENNESS STUDIES
Twenty nine panelists participated in the study. Baseline color
measurements were obtained from the right and left ventral forearms. The
products were applied on the skin and allowed to absorb for 15 minutes.
Color measurements were obtained after 24 hours.
Decrease in reflectance (.DELTA.L*) and increase in red coloration
(.DELTA.a*) and yellow coloration (.DELTA.b*) values were calculated as
compared to baseline skin color. Total color change .DELTA.E* was
calculated as follows:
##EQU1##
Twenty Scotch tape strippings were obtained from the tanned skin after 24
hours of product treatment. Color measurements of skin were obtained
before and after stripping. The stripped tape from 15 panelists was placed
on Market Zerolith paper in ten groups of two strips. Chromameter
measurements of each pair of strippings were obtained and darkness (L*
values) and yellow (b* values) were analyzed.
At the 24 hour time point, about 5-6 measurements of color were obtained
within a 2 inch.times.2 inch tanned area of 20 panelists. The standard
deviation within these replicates indicated the evenness of tanning. If
the standard deviation was high, it was indicative of uneven, blotchy
effect. A low standard deviation indicated even and smooth coloration.
Statistical difference was evaluated via one-sample T-test using the
Statgraphics Statistical package.
6.1.2 DEPTH OF TAN
Most of the selftan coloration was removed after stripping with Scotch
tape. The skin coloration with the Selftan Mist was deeper than the cream
as observed from skin coloration after 20 Scotch Tape Strippings (Table 1
and FIG. 1). Percent reduction in color after stripping of skin treated
with the E.L. Selftan cream was 67% while that of the Mist was 51%.
The color of the scotch tape strippings (Table 2 and FIG. 2) indicated that
most of the color was concentrated in the top ten layers of skin. Since
there was more selftan on skin treated with the mist, more color came off
the skin treated with the mist as compared to the cream.
TABLE 1
______________________________________
Depth of Self-action tanning
With Selftan Cream and Mist
n = 29
E.L. Selftan
E.L. Selftan
Cream Mist
______________________________________
Before Stripping
.DELTA.L* values
2.57 3.73
.DELTA.a* values
1.40 1.93
.DELTA.b* values
3.57 4.30
.DELTA.E* values
4.61 6.01
After Stripping
.DELTA.L* values
.24 1.15
.DELTA.a* values
1.31 2.03
.DELTA.b* values
.73 1.76
.DELTA.E* values
1.52 2.92
Percent Reduction
67.10 51.38
______________________________________
TABLE 2
______________________________________
Depth of Self-action tanning
With Selftan Cream and Mist
Total Change in Color (.DELTA.L* and .DELTA.b*) (n = 15)
Strippings Mist Cream
______________________________________
1-2 5.26 4.16
3-4 4.84 3.85
5-6 3.48 2.78
7-8 2.77 2.35
9-10 2.41 2.17
11-12 1.96 1.78
13-14 1.76 1.66
15-16 1.77 1.57
17-18 1.52 1.43
19-20 1.39 1.39
______________________________________
6.1.3 EVENNESS OF TAN
FIG. 3 shows that there was about 22% lower standard deviation with the
Mist than the Cream. The difference is not highly significant (p=0.0247),
however, the general trend indicated that the Selftan Mist caused an even
tan possibly due to even distribution of DHA as it is released in the form
of a spray.
6.2 EXAMPLE 2
SELF-ACTION TANNING WITH E.L. SELF ACTION TANNING CREAM AND MIST
This experiment was designed to compare the effect of E.L. Self-action
Tanning Cream and Mist on increasing skin color. The results demonstrate
that the onset of color was faster with the Selftan Mist than the Cream,
also, it took a longer time for the color to fade with the Selftan Mist.
The following products were tested:
E.L. Self-action Tanning Cream medium (see Example 1)
B. E.L. Self-action Tanning Mist (see formula above)
6.2.1 PROCEDURE FOR THE ONSET OF COLOR TEST
A total of twenty nine panelists participated in the study. Baseline color
measurements were obtained from the right and left ventral forearms. The
products were applied on the skin and allowed to absorb for 15 minutes.
Color measurements were obtained after 2, 4, 5 hours and 24 hours and also
after 3 and 5 days. Measurements were obtained from varying number of
panelists at each time points, ranging from n=9 to n=29.
Decrease in reflectance and increase in red coloration and yellow
coloration (.DELTA.L*, .DELTA.a* and .DELTA.b* values) were calculated as
compared to baseline skin color. Total color change .DELTA.E* was
calculated as follows:
##EQU2##
There was a decrease in skin reflectance and an increase in skin redness
and yellow coloration, due to the tanning effect of self-action tanning
products. Total change in color shows that the onset of skin tanning was
faster with the Tanning Mist than the cream.
After 6 days most of the skin color faded, however as observed in Table 3
and FIG. 4, there was a slightly darker (35%) tan on skin treated with the
Selftan Mist than the Cream. Thus it took a longer time for the color to
fade with the Selftan Mist as compared to the Cream.
TABLE 3
______________________________________
Self Action Tanning With
E.L. Self Action Tanning Mist and Cream
Total change in Color .DELTA.E*
Cream Mist
______________________________________
2 Hours (n = 9) 4.08 4.91
4 Hours (n = 9) 4.89 5.94
5 Hours (n = 29) 4.73 5.55
24 Hours (n = 29) 4.61 6.01
3 days (n = 9) 4.48 5.96
6 days (n = 20) 2.24 3.42
______________________________________
6.3 EXAMPLE 3
LONG TERM IN-USE EFFECT OF SELF-ACTION TANNING MIST VS. CREAM
The following example demonstrates the improved tanning effects of
Self-action Tanning Mist over the Self-action Tanning Cream. Self-action
Tanning Mist was more effective than the cream in increasing skin color at
each concentration tested. Further, this example demonstrates that a dose
response was observed between the concentration of DHA and the total color
increase.
6.3.1 PROCEDURE
A clinical study was designed to study the increase in skin color after
long term use of self-action tanning cream and mist at different
concentration. The following products were tested:
Group 1: 92-30 A1: Self Tan Cream PAR 3750/1, 5% DHA 92-30 A2: Self Tan
Mist SN 1722/7, 5% DHA
Group 2: 92-30 B1: Self Tan Cream PAR 3750/2, 7.5% DHA 92-30 B2: Self Tan
Mist AS 1969/3, 7.5% DHA
Group 3: 92-30 C1: Self Tan Cream PAR 3750/3, 10% DHA 92-30 C2: Self Tan
Mist AS 1969/4, 10% DHA
Seven to ten panelists were chosen for each group. The panelists were given
a cream and a spray to be used on the right and left ventral forearms once
every other day for 3 weeks. Color measurements were obtained at time 0
(baseline), 1 week and 3 weeks.
The panelists were instructed to apply the products all over the arms and
spread the products with gloved hands to avoid staining of hands. They
were instructed to allow the products to absorb for about 15 minutes
before rolling down the sleeves to prevent staining of clothes and also to
avoid streaking effect of the product.
Decrease in reflectance and increase in red coloration and yellow
coloration (.DELTA.L*, .DELTA.a* and .DELTA.b* values) were calculated as
compared to baseline skin color. Total color change .DELTA.E, was
calculated as follows:
##EQU3##
After 3 week use the color of the skin of some panelists using the 7.5% DHA
and 10% DHA products was extremely dark but blotchy with dry patches. Some
panelists actually exhibited a decrease in tanning effect after long term
use possibly due to saturation.
There was a decrease in skin reflectance and an increase in skin redness
and yellow coloration, due to the tanning effect of self-action tanning
products. Total change in color .DELTA.E* (FIG. 5) shows that the
Self-action Tanning Mist was more effective than the cream in increasing
skin color at each concentration tested.
A dose response was observed between the concentration of DHA and the total
color increase (Table 4).
TABLE 4
______________________________________
Long Term In-Use Self-action Tanning Effect
of E.L. Selftan Mist versus E.L. Selftan Cream
5% DHA 7.5% DHA 10% DHA
Cream Mist Cream Mist Cream Mist
______________________________________
1 week 4.29 5.12 5.70 5.33 5.97 8.31
in-use
.DELTA.L* values
.DELTA.a* values
2.32 2.88 4.15 3.65 4.21 4.59
.DELTA.b* values
5.47 6.43 5.84 6.16 7.97 8.59
.DELTA.E* values
7.33 8.71 9.15 8.93 10.81 12.80
3 week 5.26 5.84 6.28 6.90 7.40 10.37
in-use
.DELTA.L* values
.DELTA.a* values
2.8 3.13 4.56 4.33 4.67 5.67
.DELTA.b* values
5.68 6.84 6.90 7.60 8.64 9.52
.DELTA.E* values
8.23 9.52 10.38 11.14 12.30 15.18
______________________________________
6.4 EXAMPLE 4
SELF-ACTION TANNING WITH E.L. SELFTAN AND E.L. SELFTAN MIST COMPARISON WITH
VARIOUS OTHER SELFTAN CREAMS
This experiment was designed to compare the self-action tanning effect of
E.L. Self-action Tanning Mist as compared to various competing products.
In particular, the example demonstrates that the tanning color achieved by
the E.L. Selftan Mist closely resembles the color of a natural tan. The
following products were tested:
1. E.L. Self-action Tanning Mist (see formula above)
2. E.L. Self-action Tanning Cream (medium) (see Example 1)
3. Coppertone Sunless Tanning Lotion (Schering-Plough)
4. Lancome Lait Auto-Bronzant Personnalise' 27 Medium Complexion Formula
5. Vaseline Intensive Care Moisturizing Sunless Tanning for Fair Skin
(Chesebrough-Ponds)
6. Elizabeth Arden Spa for the Sun, Sunshine Selftanner for the Body
7. Elizabeth Arden Spa for the Sun, Sunshine Selftanner The Natural Look
Selftanner for the Face SPF 15 (Dual tube)
6.4.1 PROCEDURE
A total of six panels (n=29 to n=7) were used in the study. Each panel was
treated with the E.L. Mist on one arm and a Cream on the other arm.
Treatment and panel distribution was as follows:
Group A: (n=29)
1. E.L. Self-action Tanning Mist
2. E.L. Self-action Tanning Cream (medium)
Group B: (n=10)
1. E.L. Self-action Tanning Mist
2. Coppertone
Group C: (n=10)
1. E.L. Self-action Tanning Mist
2. Vaseline Intensive Care
Group D: (n=10)
1. E.L. Self-action Tanning Mist
2. Elizabeth Arden
Group E: (n=8)
1. E.L. Self-action Tanning Mist
2. Lancome
Group F: (n=7)
1. E.L. Self-action Tanning Mist
2. Elizabeth Arden Natural Look Selftanner
Baseline color measurements were obtained from the right and left ventral
forearms. In-use amounts of the products were applied all over the arms
and blended in. The panelists allowed the products to absorb for 15
minutes. Color measurements were obtained after 5 hours and 24 hours.
Decrease in reflectance and increase in red coloration and yellow
coloration (.DELTA.L*, .DELTA.a* and .DELTA.b* values) were calculated as
compared to baseline skin color. Total color change .DELTA.E* was
calculated as follows:
##EQU4##
Natural Universe of Tanning was based on a panel of 19 volunteers
exhibiting various degrees of sun tan. It was prepared as follows.
Skin tanning due to sun exposure was measured with a Chromameter. Increase
in reflectance (.DELTA.L*), red coloration (.DELTA.a*) and yellow
coloration (.DELTA.b*) were calculated as compared to baseline skin color.
Chroma or color change .DELTA.C* was calculated as follows:
##EQU5##
The change in color Chroma values (.DELTA.C*) and the change in skin
darkness .DELTA.L* were plotted via cluster analysis from the Statgraphics
statistical package. A cluster plane encompassing the distribution of
normal skin tanning color values exhibited by the population was obtained.
This represents the "Natural Universe of skin tanning" or a response
region within which natural skin tan color was observed. The color change
due to the self tanning response was plotted in the Natural Universe of
tanning. The selftan response is "natural" if it is closer to the center
of the Natural universe of tanning.
Difference between the .DELTA.E* values of the Mist and cream was analyzed
via Wilcox test using the Statgraphics Statistical Package.
The panelists exhibited varying degrees of tanning with the E.L. Selftan
Mist. In order to obtain one value for the Mist, the Darkness Chroma
.DELTA.C* and total color values .DELTA.E* for the Mist were averaged and
the corresponding Cream values normalized to the average Mist values. This
technique allows for a reduction in the complexity of interpretation of
data.
There was a decrease in skin reflectance and an increase in skin redness
and yellow coloration, due to the tanning effect of self-action tanning
products. Total change in color .DELTA.E* (FIG. 6) shows that the
Self-action Tanning Mist was the most effective in increasing skin color
as compared to all the creams tested. The Selftan Mist was significantly
better (Z 0.05, 95% Confidence) than the Coppertone, Vaseline, Arden and
EA Natural. The Lancome product and the Mist showed less difference (Table
5). These results are summarized as follows:
TABLE 5
______________________________________
Self-action Tanning With
E.L. Selftan Mist and Various Other Creams
Total Change in Color (.DELTA.E*) 24 hours after treatment
Significance
Cream Mist n Z value
______________________________________
Group A: E.L. Selftan
4.62 6.01 29 0.012
Group B: Coppertone
2.65 5.05 10 0.00728
Group C: Vaseline
2.21 7.30 10 0.00136
Group D: Arden
5.11 7.65 10 0.00171
Group E: Lancome
4.50 5.47 8 0.318
Group F: EA Natural
4.00 5.2 7 0.251
______________________________________
6.4.2 COMPARISON OF SELFTAN WITH NATURAL TAN
The change in color Chroma values (.DELTA.C*) and the change in skin
darkness (.DELTA.L*) was plotted and overlapped with the natural skin tan
cluster plane (FIGS. 7 and 8). It was observed that the Self-action skin
tanning response of E.L. Mist, E.L. Cream and Arden Cream was within the
Natural Universe of skin tanning; however, the Selftan Mist appeared to be
closer to the center of the Color Universe than the Creams. Vaseline,
Coppertone and also Lancome Selftan products were not within the Natural
Universe of tanning. The Lancome product which appeared to be as effective
as the Mist in terms of total color did not fall within the Natural
universe of tanning since it increased the intensity of color values (red
and yellow) more than the darkness, thereby giving more of a "stained"
look than a "tanned" look. Skin color of selftan with Elizabeth Arden
Natural Selftan product was similar to E.L. Self-action cream.
In order for the selftan to be closer to the center of the Universe, the
color increase must be in proportion to the decrease in reflectance. A
product might appear to darken the skin significantly as observed by total
increase in color (.DELTA.E*), however, observation of the Chroma
(.DELTA.C*) and Reflectance (.DELTA.L*) reveals whether the darkened look
was like a colored or "stained" look or closer to the natural tan of the
skin.
TABLE 6
______________________________________
Self Action Tanning Response of
E.L. Selftan Mist and Various Selftan Creams
Darkness Chroma Total color
Product .DELTA.L* values
.DELTA.C* values
.DELTA.E* values
______________________________________
5 Hours
E.L. Mist 3.42 5.09 6.14
Lancome 2.32 3.92 4.55
E.A. Natural
2.74 4.13 4.77
E.L. Cream
2.68 4.12 4.88
Arden 2.32 3.29 4.02
Coppertone
.96 2.86 3.16
Vaseline 1.09 3.21 3.45
24 Hours
E.L. Mist 3.85 4.99 6.30
Lancome 1.77 4.24 4.85
E.A. Natural
2.81 3.57 4.54
E.L. Cream
2.57 3.57 4.53
Arden 2.18 3.11 3.94
Coppertone
1.25 2.66 3.10
Vaseline .60 1.61 1.79
______________________________________
It is apparent that many modifications and variations of this invention as
hereinabove set forth may be made without departing from the spirit and
scope thereof. The specific embodiments described herein are given by way
of example only and the invention is limited only the terms of the
appended claims.
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